Look closely on the counter: you will find a masala dabba (spice box)—a round stainless steel tray with seven small bowls. This is the conductor’s podium. In it sit: haldi (turmeric), jeera (cumin), dhania (coriander), lal mirch (red chili), rai (mustard seeds), heeng (asafoetida), and kali mirch (black pepper). To open a masala dabba is to open the gates of destiny; no two Indian dishes taste the same because no two hands measure the spices identically.